Where to Eat in Bogotá: The Local's Food Guide

Bogotá has quietly become one of South America's best food cities. Three Bogotá restaurants are on the World's 50 Best list. But the real magic is on the streets and in the neighborhood joints that no tourist guide covers.

Street Food (Under $2)

Empanadas — Every street corner has a vendor frying empanadas. The best ones have a thin, crispy shell and are filled with beef or potato. 2,000-3,000 COP each. Dip them in ají.

Arepas — Corn cakes filled with cheese. The arepa de choclo (sweet corn) with quesito is breakfast perfection.

Obleas — Giant thin wafers with arequipe (dulce de leche), jam, cheese, and condensed milk. A Bogotá specialty.

Tamales — Bogotá tamales are wrapped in banana leaves and stuffed with rice, chicken, pork, carrots, and peas. A full meal for 5,000 COP.

Traditional Restaurants

Ajiaco — Bogotá's signature soup. Three types of potato, chicken, corn, capers, cream, and avocado. Heavy, warming, perfect for the cold Bogotá weather. Best at La Puerta Falsa (the oldest restaurant in the city, since 1816).

Bandeja Paisa — A mountain of food: beans, rice, ground beef, chicharrón, plantain, arepa, avocado, and a fried egg. Not originally from Bogotá but available everywhere.

Chocolate con Queso — Hot chocolate served with a piece of fresh cheese that you dip into the chocolate. Sounds weird. Life-changing.

Where Locals Eat

La Perseverancia market — Working-class market near La Candelaria. Best ajiaco in the city at a fraction of restaurant prices.

Chapinero food halls — The trendy neighborhood has modern food halls and traditional restaurants side by side.

Usaquén on Sundays — The flea market has food stalls where chefs test new concepts.

A Local Friend in Bogotá knows which ajiaco abuela has been cooking for 40 years, which empanada cart in Chapinero is the one, and which ceviche spot in Zona G is worth the splurge.