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Paris in December: Cold, Lit Up, Christmas Windows, and Where to Be on New Year's Eve

December in Paris is cold, dark by five, and lit from the Champs-Élysées to the smallest boulangerie. Christmas markets at the Tuileries and La Défense, the Galeries Lafayette windows and tree, ice rinks, what closes on the 25th, and the honest version of New Year's Eve at the Arc de Triomphe. Plus the price curve, which is flat until the last ten days.

Oscar Garcia·Founder of Roavi··2 min read

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December Paris is a city that goes dark at five and then turns every light it owns on. Cold, yes. Worth it, yes.

Weather#

Typical
Days7 to 8 °C
NightsAround 3 °C
RainGrey and drizzly more often than not; snow is rare
Dark byFive

November is a little milder, grey and emptier.

The lights#

The Champs-Élysées from the Arc to Concorde. The Galeries Lafayette and Printemps windows and the giant tree under the Lafayette dome on Boulevard Haussmann. The Tuileries market with its ice rink and big wheel. Place Vendôme, Avenue Montaigne, and the Bercy Village lights for a quieter version. Walk them after five, when the city is doing the same.

What to do#

The 3-day itinerary in winter light, with museum afternoons. Skating at the Hôtel de Ville rink when it runs. A Seine cruise in the dark, which is the only time it is worth it. Hot chocolate at a counter, not a terrace. Things to do in Paris.

The holidays#

Museums are open on the 24th and 26th and closed on the 25th. Christmas Eve dinner is the big French meal; book a restaurant weeks ahead or buy from a traiteur and eat in. New Year's Eve: the show at the Arc de Triomphe, a dinner booked long before, and a metro that runs all night.

Crowds and prices#

Moderate until around the 20th, then full and expensive through 2 January. The 31st is the dearest night of the Paris year. Book it first and build the trip around it. Is Paris safe? for the holiday-crowd rules.

What to pack#

A real winter coat, hat, gloves, scarf, waterproof shoes. Layers for the overheated metro and museums.

Plan it#

Post your dates on Roavi Community and see who is in town. Roavi has almost no Local Friends in Paris yet; browse who is on Roavi and post early. Meet other travellers in Paris.

Paris in December? Lights on, queues off. Find who is in town.

Post on Community

Frequently Asked Questions

  • Is Paris cold in December?
    Yes, but rarely bitter: highs around seven or eight Celsius, lows around three, with grey skies more often than snow. The wind along the river is the cold part. A proper winter coat, hat and gloves make it comfortable.
  • What is open in Paris on Christmas Day?
    Most museums, including the Louvre and the Orsay, close on 25 December. The Eiffel Tower opens with shorter hours. Many restaurants close or serve a set menu; brasseries in tourist districts stay open. The 24th and 26th are close to normal.
  • Where are the Christmas markets in Paris?
    The biggest is in the Tuileries gardens, with rides and an ice rink. La Défense has a large one, and smaller markets appear at Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Montmartre and Notre-Dame. They are more fairground than Alsace; for a proper market, Strasbourg is under two hours by train.
  • Are there fireworks in Paris on New Year's Eve?
    The city puts on a light and video show at the Arc de Triomphe with a short fireworks display at midnight; the crowd fills the Champs-Élysées from early evening. There is no official show at the Eiffel Tower, which many visitors expect. The metro runs all night.

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This article was written with the help of AI and reviewed by the Roavi team.

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