Lisbon has exploded in popularity over the last decade. What was once a quiet, affordable European capital is now a must-visit destination. But despite the tourist boom, Lisbon has managed to keep its soul — you just have to know where to find it.
Beyond the Tourist Trail#
Mouraria — The birthplace of fado music. Multicultural, gritty, authentic. The best non-touristy fado happens in tiny bars here, not in the expensive Alfama fado houses.
LX Factory — A converted industrial complex under the 25 de Abril bridge. Bookshops, restaurants, design studios, weekend markets. What Williamsburg wishes it could be.
Príncipe Real — Lisbon's trendiest neighborhood. Boutique shops, botanical garden, the Saturday organic market, and some of the best brunch spots in the city.
Costa da Caparica — A 20-minute drive across the bridge. Miles of Atlantic beach with beach bars (chiringuitos). Where Lisboners actually go to the beach. Different vibe from the city beaches.
Miradouros (viewpoints) — Lisbon is built on seven hills. Every neighborhood has a miradouro with a different angle on the city. Miradouro da Graça and Miradouro de Santa Luzia are famous. Miradouro do Monte Agudo is not — and has the best sunset.
Food and Drink#
- Pastel de nata — The famous custard tart. Pastéis de Belém is the original (and worth the line). But Time Out Market, Manteigaria, and almost any neighborhood bakery make excellent ones.
- Bifana — A pork sandwich on a soft roll with mustard. Portugal's answer to street food. Best at Casa das Bifanas or any bar near a football stadium.
- Ginjinha — Sour cherry liqueur served in a tiny cup at stand-up bars in Rossio square. One shot, 1.50 euros.
- Cervejaria Ramiro — Possibly the best seafood restaurant in Europe. No reservation. Go early or wait. Order the tiger prawns and the steak sandwich at the end.
- Tascas — Tiny neighborhood restaurants with 5-6 tables and a handwritten menu. This is where Lisbon eats lunch. Bacalhau (codfish) prepared 365 different ways.
Getting Around#
Tram 28 is famous but is a tourist cattle car. Walk Lisbon's hills instead — the city rewards walkers with surprise viewpoints and hidden squares. When tired, Uber is cheap, or use the metro.
A Local Friend in Lisbon knows which fado bar in Mouraria has the real singers (not the tourist shows), which tascas serve the best bacalhau, and which viewpoint to go to at sunset when every other one is packed.
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