Seattle is a city built between water and mountains, and the best things to do here are about one or the other. The famous sights are close together and take a day. Give the rest of your trip to the water.
Pike Place Market, early#
Pike Place has been a working market since 1907: fish thrown across the counter, flower stalls, bakeries and the lower floors most visitors never find. By late morning it is shoulder to shoulder, so go before 10am, eat breakfast there and walk down the stairs to the waterfront. The gum wall is in Post Alley, below the market.
The Space Needle and Seattle Center#
The Space Needle was built for the 1962 World's Fair, and Seattle Center around it still has the fair's grounds. Next door, Chihuly Garden and Glass is Dale Chihuly's glass in rooms and a garden, and it is better than its gift-shop reputation. The Museum of Pop Culture is the strange metal building in the middle. The monorail from 1962 still runs from downtown.
For the classic photo of the Needle with the city behind it, go to Kerry Park on Queen Anne Hill at sunset. It costs nothing.
Take the ferry#
Washington State Ferries are part of how people commute. The ride to Bainbridge Island takes about 35 minutes and gives you the skyline from the water, and on a clear day the Olympic Mountains and Mount Rainier. Walk on, wander the town of Winslow, have lunch and come back. Foot passengers pay only on the way out.
The Ballard Locks#
The Hiram M. Chittenden Locks, in Ballard, lift boats between the salt water of Puget Sound and the fresh water of the lakes. You can stand a few feet from the boats as the water rises. From roughly July to September, salmon climb the fish ladder beside them, and a window underground lets you watch them pass. Then walk into Ballard for its breweries and seafood.
Discovery Park#
The city's largest park sits on a bluff in Magnolia: forest trails, meadows and a path down to a beach and the West Point lighthouse. On a clear afternoon it has some of the best views of the Sound in Seattle.
The neighbourhoods#
- Fremont calls itself the centre of the universe. It has the Fremont Troll under a bridge, a Sunday market and Gas Works Park, an old gas plant turned into a park with a view across Lake Union.
- Capitol Hill is where Seattle goes out: bars, live music, restaurants and Cal Anderson Park.
- The International District has dim sum, pho, Japanese groceries and the Wing Luke Museum on the Asian Pacific American experience.
- Pioneer Square, the oldest part of the city, has the Underground Tour through the streets that were built over after the fire of 1889.
On the water#
Rent a kayak or a paddleboard on Lake Union and paddle past the houseboats. In summer, the lakes have public beaches; Lake Washington's are the warmest, though "warm" in Seattle is relative.
Coffee#
Seattle takes coffee seriously, and the first Starbucks store at Pike Place is mostly a queue. The city's independent roasters are the reason people say Seattle is a coffee town; ask a local which one is theirs.
Day trips#
- Mount Rainier, about two hours away, is the volcano you see from the city on clear days. Paradise has wildflower meadows in summer.
- Snoqualmie Falls, under an hour east, is a waterfall taller than Niagara with a short trail to the bottom.
- The Olympic Peninsula has rainforest, hot springs and wild beaches; it needs at least a full day.
When to go#
July to September is dry, mild and bright, with long days. From October to spring the sky is often grey with light rain, and the mountains hide, but the city is quieter and the cafés are full.
Getting around#
Link light rail runs from Sea-Tac Airport to downtown, Capitol Hill and the University District. Buses cover the rest, and the ferries take foot passengers. You only need a car to leave the city.
With someone who lives here#
A Local Friend in Seattle knows which day the mountain will be out, which ferry is quiet, where to eat in the International District and which bar on Capitol Hill has music tonight. Roavi is still small in Seattle, so check who is listed. You browse their profiles, see what they're great for and what they charge per hour, and write to them directly. Roavi takes no fee: you pay the Local Friend.
Going to Seattle?
Meet local guides in SeattleAlso worth reading: solo travel in the USA, first time in the USA and things to do in San Francisco alone, the next big city down the coast.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is there to do in Seattle besides Pike Place and the Space Needle?
Take the ferry to Bainbridge Island, watch boats and (in summer) salmon at the Ballard Locks, walk Discovery Park's bluffs, see Fremont and its troll, eat in the International District, go out on Capitol Hill, kayak Lake Union, and on a clear day drive to Mount Rainier.How many days do I need in Seattle?
Three days covers the centre, the ferry and two neighbourhoods. Add a day for Mount Rainier or the Olympic Peninsula.What is the best time to visit Seattle?
July to September: dry, mild and long days. The rest of the year is grey with frequent light rain, which locals barely notice, but the mountain views disappear.Do I need a car in Seattle?
Not for the city. Link light rail runs from the airport to downtown and Capitol Hill, buses cover the rest, and the ferries take foot passengers. For Mount Rainier or the national parks, yes, or someone local who drives.Is the Bainbridge ferry worth it?
Yes. It is a regular commuter ferry, about 35 minutes each way, with the best view of the Seattle skyline and, on a clear day, the Olympic Mountains and Rainier. Walk-on passengers pay only on the way out.