Hakone packs a mountain railway, a volcano, a lake, a shrine, Fuji and a hot bath into one day. It's the best day trip in Japan when the sky is clear.
Getting there#
Romancecar from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto, about 85 minutes, reserved seats. The Hakone Free Pass (two or three days) covers the Odakyu round trip from Shinjuku and every train, cable car, ropeway, boat and bus in the loop. Buy it at Shinjuku or online. Leave by 8.
The loop#
| Leg | What |
|---|---|
| Hakone Tozan Railway | Switchbacks up through the forest to Gora |
| Cable car | Gora to Sounzan |
| Ropeway | Over Owakudani's steaming vents (black eggs for sale), Fuji to the right on a clear day |
| Ropeway down | To Togendai on Lake Ashi |
| Pirate ship | Across the lake to Moto-Hakone, Fuji behind |
| Hakone Shrine | The torii in the water; a queue for the photo |
| Bus | Back to Hakone-Yumoto |
| Onsen | A day-use bath in Yumoto before the train |
About seven hours with lunch. Do it clockwise as above when Fuji is clear in the morning; reverse it if the forecast says the afternoon will clear.
Fuji#
Hides half the year. Clearest on winter mornings (Tokyo in January, December); cloudiest in summer afternoons. Check the Hakone webcams at breakfast; if it's socked in, Hakone is still a lovely day, just a smaller one.
The onsen#
Day-use baths in Hakone-Yumoto take walk-ins; some have private baths by the hour. Tattoos: the tattoo-friendly guide has the rules and the places. Towel and etiquette: wash first, no swimwear, no phones.
Overnight#
A ryokan with its own baths and a kaiseki dinner is the Japan people dream about. If a Tokyo week can spare a night, this is where to spend it.
Also#
The Open-Air Museum at Chokoku-no-Mori (Picasso, Moore, a foot bath), the Pola Museum, Gora Park. Nikko is the alternative day trip; all the options.
Ask a Tokyoite#
Which onsen takes walk-ins at 4pm, whether Fuji is out this week, which day the ropeway is quiet: post your dates on Roavi Community and Local Friends answer. A Local Friend who's done the loop twenty times is a different day.
Hakone this week? Ask someone from Tokyo if Fuji is out.
Post your tripFrequently Asked Questions
How do I get from Tokyo to Hakone?
The Odakyu Romancecar from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto takes about 85 minutes with a reserved seat; the regular Odakyu express is slower and cheaper. The Hakone Free Pass covers the Odakyu round trip (or just the Hakone area) plus all the local transport in the loop.Can you see Mount Fuji from Hakone?
On a clear day, yes: from the ropeway near Owakudani and from Lake Ashi, especially the Moto-Hakone end. Winter mornings are clearest; summer afternoons are cloudiest. Check the webcams before committing a day to the view.Is Hakone better as a day trip or overnight?
A day trip covers the loop and an onsen. An overnight in a ryokan with its own baths and a kaiseki dinner is the experience people remember; if you have a spare night in a Tokyo week, spend it here.Can you use an onsen in Hakone with tattoos?
Some. Many public baths refuse visible tattoos; a growing number allow small covered ones or offer private baths (kashikiri) by the hour that solve it. Check the bath's policy before you go. The tattoo-friendly guide covers Tokyo and Hakone.
