Nikko is where the Tokugawa shoguns put their money, and it shows.
Getting there#
Tobu limited express from Asakusa to Tobu-Nikko, about two hours, reserved seats. The Nikko passes (World Heritage Area or All Nikko) cover the round trip from Asakusa and the local buses to the shrines and up to the lake; buy at Asakusa's Tobu station. Leave by 7:30 for a day trip.
Morning: the shrines#
| Stop | What |
|---|---|
| Shinkyo Bridge | The red bridge over the river; the photo |
| Rinno-ji | The big temple hall |
| Toshogu | Ieyasu's mausoleum: the Yomeimon gate, the three monkeys, the sleeping cat, 200 steps up to the tomb |
| Futarasan Shrine | Quieter, older, in the cedars |
| Taiyuin | Iemitsu's mausoleum; the same craft with a tenth of the crowd |
Three hours. Toshogu's ticket is separate; the complex is a walk through cedar forest between them.
Afternoon: up the mountain#
The bus climbs the Irohazaka switchbacks (48 of them, one per syllable of the old alphabet) to Kegon Falls (an elevator to the base) and Lake Chuzenji. An hour up, an hour there, an hour down. In autumn the road jams; go early or accept it.
Leaves#
Mid-October at the lake and on the road; late October to early November in town. Japan autumn leaves for the forecast, Tokyo in October and November for the month.
Overnight#
Chuzenji's lakeside hotels or Kinugawa onsen's resort town. Shrines at 8am before the buses, a hot spring, an unhurried second day. Worth it in autumn.
Also#
Yuba (tofu skin) is Nikko's dish; eat it in town. Hakone is the alternative; all the day trips. Fits day five of the 7-day itinerary.
Ask someone from Tokyo#
Which weekday Toshogu is quiet, whether the leaves have turned, whether the Irohazaka is worth it this week: post your dates on Roavi Community. Local Friends answer, and some come along: rent a Local Friend in Tokyo.
Nikko this week? Ask someone from Tokyo if the leaves have turned.
Post your tripFrequently Asked Questions
How do I get from Tokyo to Nikko?
The Tobu limited express from Asakusa (or Kita-Senju) to Tobu-Nikko takes about two hours; JR runs from Shinjuku via a joint service and from Utsunomiya by shinkansen plus a local line. Tobu's Nikko passes cover the train and the local buses to the shrines and the lake.Is Nikko worth a day trip from Tokyo?
Yes: Toshogu is the most elaborate shrine in Japan and the forest setting, the lake and the waterfall make a full, varied day. It's a long day, so start early.When are the autumn leaves in Nikko?
Mid-October around Lake Chuzenji and the Irohazaka road, late October to early November in Nikko town. Expect heavy traffic on the switchback road at the peak; take the earliest train.Nikko day trip or overnight?
A day trip covers the shrines and the lake if you leave Tokyo by 7:30. An overnight in Chuzenji or Kinugawa onsen lets you see the shrines at opening before the day-trippers and adds a hot spring. Worth it in autumn.
