Prague is one of Europe's most visited cities — and one of its most misunderstood. Most tourists see the same Prague: Charles Bridge, Old Town Square, Prague Castle. But the city locals love is in the neighborhoods tourists never visit.
Beyond the Tourist Center#
Vinohrady — Wine bars, brunch spots, Riegrovy Sady beer garden with castle views. Where Prague's young professionals live. Walk Mánesova street.
Žižkov — Prague's dive bar capital. More pubs per capita than anywhere in Europe. The TV Tower (with David Černý's crawling babies) has a bar at the top.
Karlín — Former flood-damaged district, now Prague's restaurant scene leader. Eska, Můj šálek kávy (best coffee in Prague), and emerging wine bars.
Letná — Beer garden overlooking the Vltava with the best panoramic view of Prague's bridges. Bring your own food. Locals go at sunset.
Food & Drink#
- Trdelník is NOT Czech — It's a tourist invention. Locals don't eat it
- What locals eat: Svíčková (beef in cream sauce), kulajda (mushroom potato soup), smažený sýr (fried cheese)
- Beer: Czech Republic has the highest beer consumption per capita on earth. A half-liter at a local hospoda costs 40-60 CZK ($1.70-2.50)
- Wine: Moravian wine is Czech and excellent. Ask for Rulandské bílé or Frankovka
The Local Friend Advantage#
Prague has a tourist version and a local version. They barely overlap. A Local Friend takes you to the hospoda where the bartender only speaks Czech, the beer garden with no sign, and the restaurant where svíčková is made the way it was 100 years ago.
Also worth reading: Prague Travel Guide 2026: Why Americans Are Going.