San Diego is the most relaxed big city in California, and it knows it. The weather is mild nearly every day of the year, and the best plans here are about the coast, the parks and something to eat in between.
La Jolla#
On the rocks of La Jolla Cove, sea lions sun themselves a few metres from the path, and harbour seals have their pups at the Children's Pool nearby. Keep your distance: they are wild and protected. Below the cliffs, guided kayak trips paddle out to the sea caves, and in calm water the cove is good for snorkelling.
North of La Jolla, Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve has trails along sandstone cliffs above the beach, through one of the rarest pine trees in the country.
Balboa Park#
Balboa Park is a huge park of Spanish-style buildings from the 1915 exposition, gardens and about a dozen museums, from art to science to the history of San Diego. The San Diego Zoo is in the park too. You can spend a day wandering the gardens without paying for anything.
Coronado#
Across the bay, Coronado has one of the most beautiful beaches in the country and the Hotel del Coronado, built in 1888, with its red roofs. Take the ferry from downtown with a bike, or drive over the bridge.
The beaches#
- Pacific Beach and Mission Beach: a boardwalk, surfers, bars and the old wooden roller coaster at Belmont Park. Young and loud.
- Ocean Beach: a long pier, surf shops, tacos and a dog beach. More local and laid-back.
- Sunset Cliffs: the place to watch the sun go down over the Pacific. Stay well back from the edge.
Downtown and the bay#
The USS Midway, an aircraft carrier that served for nearly 50 years, is now a museum on the waterfront, with planes on its deck. From there, walk along the bay to Seaport Village, or into the Gaslamp Quarter for restaurants and nightlife.
Little Italy and Barrio Logan#
Little Italy has the Mercato, a large farmers market on Saturdays, and some of the best restaurants in the city. Barrio Logan, south of downtown, is a historically Mexican-American neighbourhood. Its Chicano Park has murals painted on the pillars of the bridge above it, a national historic landmark, and the streets around it have galleries, coffee and tacos.
Old Town#
Old Town San Diego is where the city began, with restored buildings from the Mexican and early American periods, museums and restaurants. It is touristy, and still worth an hour.
What to eat#
Fish tacos are the city's dish, and San Diego has Mexican food at every level, from taco shops open late to modern restaurants. It is also one of the craft beer capitals of the country, with breweries in nearly every neighbourhood.
Whales#
Grey whales pass the coast on their migration, roughly December to April. Watch for their spouts from Cabrillo National Monument at the tip of Point Loma, which also has tide pools and views of the whole bay, or take a boat from the harbour.
Tijuana and beyond#
The border is about 20 miles south, and the trolley runs from downtown to San Ysidro, where you can walk across. Tijuana's food scene is worth the trip. Check the entry rules for your passport before you go, and plan for the wait on the way back. Inland, Anza-Borrego is desert with wildflowers in spring.
When to go#
September and October are warm and clear, the water is at its warmest and the summer crowds have gone home. Summer is the busiest season. In May and June, the mornings are often grey with a marine layer; locals call it May Gray and June Gloom, and it usually burns off by afternoon.
Getting around#
The trolley links downtown, Old Town and the border, and buses reach the beaches. A car makes La Jolla, Torrey Pines and the coast much easier.
With someone who lives here#
A Local Friend in San Diego knows which beach is quiet this week, when the seals are pupping, which taco shop is worth the line and which brewery is theirs. Roavi is still small in San Diego, so check who is listed. You browse their profiles, see what they're great for and what they charge per hour, and write to them directly. Roavi takes no fee: you pay the Local Friend.
Going to San Diego?
Meet local guides in San DiegoAlso worth reading: things to do in Los Angeles, two hours north, solo travel in the USA and first time in the USA.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is San Diego known for?
Beaches and mild weather all year, the San Diego Zoo and Balboa Park, La Jolla's sea lions, the Navy (the USS Midway is a museum downtown), craft beer and Mexican food, with the border at Tijuana about 20 miles south.How many days do I need in San Diego?
Three or four days: one for Balboa Park and the zoo, one for La Jolla, one for Coronado and the beaches, and time for the neighbourhoods. Add a day for Tijuana or the desert.When is the best time to visit San Diego?
September and October are warm and clear, and the crowds of summer are gone. Summer is the high season. May and June often start under a marine layer of cloud that locals call May Gray and June Gloom.Can you see whales in San Diego?
Yes. Grey whales pass the coast on their migration, roughly December to April, and you can watch from Cabrillo National Monument or take a boat. Blue whales are sometimes seen offshore in summer.Do I need a car in San Diego?
It helps. The trolley runs from downtown to Old Town and the border, and buses reach the beaches, but La Jolla, Sunset Cliffs and Torrey Pines are easier by car or with someone local who drives.